• Evaporator fan motor not running.
• Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Defrost heater defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Defrost thermostat defective. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Airflow blocked from freezer compartment.
• Freezer control turned to "coldest" setting blocking air flow to refrigerator side. On most refrigerator/freezers, the freezer control closes a baffle when turned to coldest setting, and this blocks off the air flow to the fresh food compartment.
• Fan blade broken.
• Defective door switch on older models.
• Light staying on with door closed.

#2 Refrigerator & freezer compartments both are getting warm

• Make sure refrigerator is plugged in and has power.
• Condenser fan motor on bottom under refrigerator not running.
• Condenser coil clogged.
• Defective defrost timer. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Defective defrost heater. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Defective defrost thermostat. See Defrost Diagnosis Procedure
• Evaporator fan motor not running.
• Cold control defective.
• Compressor overload defective.
• Compressor relay defective.
• Light staying on with door closed.
• Compressor defective.
• Low on refrigerant.

#3 Freezer compartment getting hot.

• Defrost timer stuck in defrost cycle.(replace)
• Defrost thermostat stuck.(replace)
• Ice maker stuck in harvest cycle
• Light staying on with door closed.

#4 Ice maker not making ice

• Defective inlet water valve.
• Freezer temperature not cold enough. (see problem # 2 & 3 above)
• Defective thermostat in ice maker.
• Defective drive motor.
• Water inlet tube clogged with ice.
• Defective module in newer style icemaker.

#5 Refrigerator sweating around door edges

• Door gaskets leaking air.
• Defective case heaters.
• Energy saver switch not set to reduce exterior moisture