WASHER

My WASHER does not fill. Water is coming in but it seems to be siphoning the water down the drain.

How do I remove the cabinet from my direct drive Whirlpool/Kenmore/Roper/KitchenAid washer?

STOVE

My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The glow bar (igniter) is glowing.

My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The oven pilot light is lit.

REFRIGERATOR

My REFRIGERATOR freezes everything even when set on the lowest setting.

DRYER

My GAS DRYER will not.......

How do I get into my Whirlpool/Roper/KitchenAid/Kenmore dryer to replace the belt, idler, motor, drum supports etc.?

AIR CONDITIONER

• It all depends on if the water will stop flowing into the washer when you turn off the timer. If not and the only way you can get the water to stop flowing is to turn off the water spigot, the water valve will need to be replaced.
  If the water will cut off when the timer is turned off, then you may have a bad water level switch. The water level switch controls the water level, and when it detects that the tub has enough water, it's job is to cut the water off AND start the agitate cycle. If the water level switch does not detect a full load of water, it will never start the agitate cycle. You most likely have a defective water level switch.
  However you could also have a pin hole in the vacuum tube that goes from the tub to the water level switch. As the machine is filling, pressure backs up through the vacuum tube, and when the pressure is great enough, the switch cuts the water off and starts the agitate cycle. If there is a pin hole in the tube, no pressure can back up inside the tube, and the switch will never activate.

• This should not be to tough too fix. There are 2 causes for this:
  1. The drain hose is too low. The drain hose must be looped higher than the water level in the washer. If it is too low, raise it up. If it is impossible to raise the drain hose, the cure for this is to install a siphon break in your drain hose. The part is cheap and easy to install.
  2. The drain hose must be able go get air in order to prevent setting up a siphon action. If your drain hose is taped to the plumbing pipe, or fits in too tight, it will siphon. The drain hose must just drop into the plumbing pipe. If it is impossible to give the drain hose air at the plumbing pipe, use a siphon break in your drain hose.

• If you have ever tried to check out the direct drive washer manufactured by Whirlpool Corp., you found out pretty quickly that you can't hardly do anything until the cabinet is removed. The older Whirlpool Corp. washers with a belt do not have a removable cabinet.

  While it may sound like a pain to have to remove the cabinet, in reality it is really simple, and it makes getting to the parts a breeze.

  All you need is a Phillips screwdriver and a flat blade screwdriver.

  First step, of course is to unplug the machine. Then remove the 2 Phillips screws on the bottom of the timer console.

  The timer console in hinged in the back. Pull the console forward slightly to clear the hooks on the bottom of the end caps, and roll the console up from the bottom on it's hinges.

  Under the console you will see a 3 wire harness that is plugged into the top of the cabinet. Unplug this harness.

  Using the flat blade screwdriver, pop off the 2 metal clips that are holding the back panel to the top of the cabinet. These clips are sort of "S" shaped, and are located near the left and right edges of the top of the cabinet.

  Grasp the cabinet on each side, pull the top of the cabinet towards you to a 45 degree angle. Pull straight back on the cabinet and it will slip right off.

  To replace the cabinet

  Put the cabinet up to the front edge of the base, open the lid so you can see the inside bottom of the cabinet.

  Tilt the cabinet to a 45 degree angle and slip the bottom front lip of the cabinet under the front of the base (make sure the console is hinged up).

  Now let the cabinet go down. There are 2 dowels on each side of the base that must match up with slots on the side bottom lips of the cabinet.

  After the cabinet is in place, look at the back and make sure it is lining up properly on one side. Reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.

  Now move to the other side. Line it up properly and reinstall the "S" bracket on that side.

  Plug in the harness.

  Lower the console, and reinstall the screws.

• You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad. Here is the procedure for determining your problem.
  1. Disconnect power to stove
  2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
  3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire apx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
  4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
  5. Turn power back on to stove.
  6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
  7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
  8. If after apx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
     NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.

My GAS STOVE oven will not light. The glow bar (igniter) is glowing, but it will not light..

• I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances. Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained properly.
  I think you either have a bad igniter (glow bar) or a bad safety valve. Yes, the glow bar can be bad and still glow. It must pull a predetermined amount of current in order for the safety valve to open. On a tag on the safety valve there should be an AMP or AMPERAGE or CURRENT rating, usually something like 3.2 amps. This is the amount of amperage that the glow bar must pull in order to be good. You will need a clamp-on amp meter to test the amperage draw of the glow bar. Clamp the meter around either of the 2 lead wires at the back of the glow bar and turn on the thermostat. Observe the amp draw. If it is within 2 percent of the listed rating on the safety valve, the glow bar is good and you should replace the safety valve. If the amp rating is not within 2 percent of the listed rating, replace the glow bar.

• I'll be glad to give you some pointers, but I always recommend that consumers hire a trained tech to repair their gas appliances. Gas appliances can be dangerous to work on if you are not trained properly.
  Since your oven pilot light will light, your problem will be either the oven thermostat or the oven safety valve. Get down and look at the pilot light while you have someone turn on the oven thermostat. If the thermostat is working properly, you will see the flame on the pilot light get a little bit bigger when the thermostat is turned on. If it does get bigger, then the thermostat is working fine. Replace the oven safety valve. If the flame does not get bigger on the pilot light when the oven thermostat is turned on, replace the thermostat.

• You probably have a problem with your defrost system. Click HERE for troubleshooting details.

• It sounds like you have a defective cold control (thermostat).

• You most likely have a thermal cut-off that has opened. This part is usually located on the heater element case. Checking this part with a meter, you should get continuity. As the name says, this is a THERMAL cut-off, meaning it cuts off if the temperature of the element gets too high. While this part CAN open for no apparent reason, it is very rare. The usual causes for this part going out are:
  
  1. Improper air flow, usually caused by the vent hose behind the dryer being kinked or the vent system otherwise restricted,
  2. The cycling and hi-limit thermostats have both gone bad, causing the dryer to over heat.
  When you purchase the thermal cut-off, it sometimes comes with a hi-limit thermostat (depending on the brand), but the cycling thermostat must always be purchased separately.

• Coming Soon!

• In order to install a new belt or other parts inside of your dryer, you must raise the top of the dryer (it is hinged in the rear) and remove the front panel.

  The following instructions will work for most Whirlpool built dryers. Some of the newer dryers built in the last four or five years do not come apart this way. Also, some of the really old dryers are different.

  First unplug the dryer or otherwise disconnect the power to it. Make sure the dryer is close enough to a wall to support the top panel once it is raised up.

  Open the filter cover and slide out the filter (or just slide the filter out if there is no cover). There are two screws under the cover (or filter) that must be removed before you can raise the top.

  Once the two screws are removed, grasp the sides of the top, near the front, and pull it forward then pick it up. This will release the front of the top from the clips that hold it to the front panel.

  There is one screw on each side of the front panel that must be removed. These screws hold the lip of the front panel to the lip of the side panels. The screws are located a few inches below the top of the front panel, one on each side, looking over the top of the front panel to the back side of it. Remove the two screws.

  Tilt the top of the front panel toward you and make a note of the location of the two or three wires that are attached to the door switch so you can reattach them properly during reassembly. Now remove the wires.

  With the front panel tilted toward you, pick up on it to remove it from the clips which supports it at the bottom. Now you can slip a new belt around the front of the drum and install it around the motor pulley and idler pulley.

• There are a few causes for an air conditioner freezing up. If the coil in front freezes up partially and not completely, it is likely low on refrigerant. If it freezes up completely, here are the possible causes:
  1. Low ambient temperature. If the indoor temperature is below about 75 degrees and your thermostat is turned up so high that the AC compressor will not cycle off, it will freeze up.
  2. Low outside temperature. If the outside temperature is below about 75 degrees and your thermostat is turned up so high that the AC compressor will not cycle off, it will free up.
  3. Clogged filter restricting the air flow over the evaporator coil.
  4. Defective cycling thermostat. The compressor must be able to cycle off periodically or it will ice up. The evaporator temperature will fall below 32 degrees and freeze up
  5. Trying to cool and area that is too large. This will cause the compressor to run continuously. The evaporator temperature will fall below 32 degrees and freeze up.